This will be based on a basic enclosure design (3' X 3' X 6') of 4 sides (1 as a door) and 1 top.
*Remember this is your cage so the quality of your work should be the focus. You'll thank yourself throughout and at the end of the project.

Cut list for standard frames/door panels

Cut 8 pieces 2" x 2" x 6ft This will be the panels standard height (PSH).
Cut 8 pieces 2" x 2" x 33" This will be the panels standard width (PSW).
Cut 16 pieces 2" x 2" x 12" Cut the ends at 45 degree angles for corner supports (CS). (ref. pg.4 drawing)++
Cut 2 pieces 2" x 2" x 29 1/2" This will be the doors standard width (DSW).
Cut 2 pieces 2" x 2" x 68 1/2" This will be the doors standard height (DSH).

Use a stopper when sawing several similar pieces to keep them a consistant length. Tip: A wall or any stationary object works great for this.

Cut list for standard top

Cut 2 pieces 2" x 2" x 35 3/4" This will be the tops long sides (TL).
Cut 2 pieces 2" x 2" x 32 3/4" This will be the tops short sides (TS).
Cut 4 pieces 2" x 2" x 12" Cut the ends at 45 degree angles for corner supports (CS). (ref. pg. 7 drawing)++

*There are 20 corner supports (CS) total. Tip: Use the scraps cut off from the other pieces.

Tip: Stay organized and keep your similar pieces together for easier assembly of the frames!

Assembly of standard panel

Make sure your jig is laying flat and even.
Clamp one piece of PSH and one of PSW to jig as shown on preinstruction page.
Predrill a 1/8" pilot hole before attempting to fasten the two pieces together with a 3" screw.
*Tip: Use a slightly larger pilot hole if the 3" screw seems too tight when fastening the two pieces together.
You have your first "L" shape part of the frame. Continue joining all PSH to PSW in similar fashion.
Do the same with your door pieces DSH and DSW.
Join the "L"s to make the frames using your jig as before. Make sure the short part of the "L" is between the longer pieces. (ref. pg. 4)

Set one of the standard frames aside for the door. This will not get a CS installed.

Install the corner supports (CS) with 2 1/2" screws (ref. pg. 4). Be sure your frame is flat and square when screwing together (ref. preinstructions).

*Tip: If your frame is not square, clamp a CS with a C-clamp in a corner that measured the shortest like you were installing it. Slowly tighten with the clamp until both sides measure within 1/16" +/- corner to corner on both sides. Double check the squareness of your corners when finished.
Add your mesh or solid back as desired according to drawings. (ref. pg. 5, 6, 10)

Assembly of top

Assembly of tops is done the same as standard panels
Refer to the details of the drawings (pg 8).
*Recommend solid tops for indoor cages and mesh for outdoor cages.

Assembly of door

You should have one blank frame and one smaller frame with corner supports (and mesh prefered).
Assemble like standard frame according to drawing (pg. 10).

Drill holes

Use your holes jig to mark your holes on the completed panels.
Drill holes according to drawings for your standard side, door, and top panels (page 5, 7, 9)

*You can now paint or stain your cage as seperate panels or as an assembled enclosure.

Congradulations! You are now ready to assemble your Universal Cage!

Spacers

Make as necessary according to drawing (pg. 11).

Additional Tips

Your floor makes a good floor for this cage. Tiled floors, plywood, lenolium, or anything to make cleaning the floor works best for these cages. But you can be creative with false bottoms for these cages to fit around if you want to get fancy. Simple is best, usually.
DO NOT use the dirt ground outside as a floor!. Animals will dig their way out.
Use "Dryloc" masonry waterproofer to help make the enclosure moisture resistant.
Use bathroom paint for your enclosure which will further make it moisture and mold resistant.
Plexiglass used to hold heat inside the enclosure needs to cover only the top half of the cage. This will maintain your temperature gradiants with less expense.
Use plastic sheeting as way to help maintain heat and humidity..